If you're planning a trip to Procida and think that the sea kitchen here is "the usual thing", be prepared to believe you. The Procidan cuisine has another rhythm: it tastes of fresh fish just downloaded in the port, of recipes handed down secretly and of slow lunches that smell of lemon and salsedine.
There is a secret you need to know before sitting at the table: in Procida food is an extension of the territory. The same dish changes taste and atmosphere if the tastes between the colors of Corricella, in the shadow of the history to Terra Murata or with the feet almost in the sand to Chiaiolella. Choosing where to eat means choosing which soul of the island you want to live at that precise moment.
La Mappa del Gusto: Where to eat (and why)
Marina Grande: the perfect landing place to start
Just get off the ferry to Marina Grande, the instinct could tell you to escape to the beaches, but stop for a moment. The port area is strategic, especially if you have just arrived and want to start the journey with the right foot (and full belly) without complicating your life.
The trick here is to observe: follow fishermen, residents and those who work on the island every day. A perfect lunch around here? A mixed sea appetizer, the fish of the day jumped into the pan, and a glass of white ice wine. It is the ideal option for an informal meal, authentic and with an excellent value for money before launching your exploration.
Marina Corricella: the romantic dinner you don't forget
Dinner Marina Corricella is an experience to be included in your list. My advice is to get there on foot in the late afternoon, maybe after visiting Terra Murata, just as the sun begins to fall and light the colors of the fishermen's houses.
Here the password is slowness. Do not come to the Corricella if you are in a hurry: this is the realm of the paccheri to the crazy water, of the linguine to the clams and of the whispered chatter a step from the water. Avoid peak hours if you don't want to feel a simple tourist passing through; take your time and enjoy the show of the village that lights up.
Chiaiolella: sea, sunsets and total relaxation
If you are looking for a more relaxed and seaside atmosphere, Chiaiolella is your place of heart. It is the perfect area for a long lunch after a morning spent sunbathing or dinner without the stress of having to change your dress.
Here you will find establishments, pizzerias and excellent fish restaurants aligned on Chiaiolella waterfront. The perfect transition? An aperitif at sunset looking at Ischia in the distance, followed by a dinner based on fried paranza and a romantic walk on the beach of the Riviera di Ponente to close the day.
The Typical Procida Plates You Must Absolutely Try
- Linguine at the Procida Lemon: forget the classic sea dishes, this is the true magic of the island. It is a very simple but overwhelming dish, made with the famous Lemon of Procida Pane (a local Slow Food Presidium), garlic, oil, chili and a handful of fresh mint.
- Totani stuffed with the procidana: the undisputed king of the Sunday tables. Each family has its secret filling, but usually includes the same tentacles, eggs, cheese and a note of tasty bread.
- Scapece zucchini: the summer contour par excellence. Fried zucchini perfectly and then let marinate with vinegar, garlic and lots of fresh mint. Fresh and spicy.
- The Language of Procida: the king of the island sweets. Don't call her flipper! It is an oval of fragrant and light pastry, traditionally stuffed with a very perfumed pastry cream (often lemon). It must be eaten strictly warm in one of the pastries of the port.
My Tips
To live Procida at best, learn to plan your meals according to the flow of your day. If you have a few hours at your disposal, optimize your time remaining close to Marina Grande boarding points. If you want a special evening to remember, please reserve dinner at the magic of Corricella.
Food in Procida is not only a meal, it is an integral part of the journey. Avoid places too noisy or commercial, listen to local people's advice and let yourself be guided by the scents coming out of the kitchens of the alleys.
